The Yucatan Peninsula in May

is all about heat. And dryness. And fire.

A friend explained to me that last year's hurricanes are to blame for the abundant supply of downed vegetation that is now feeding the wildfires that rage across the Peninsula. Several fires are burning just outside of Mérida, such that the air here is filled with ashes.

Part of my morning routine now consists of sweeping the ashes-- which find their way through the screened doors and settle on the dining room floor-- into the back yard. The air quality seems okay until you walk around without glasses on... it seems there's always something getting in my eyes, and there is.

But we can't blame it all on the hurricanes, no. All that downed vegetation, it doesn't just spontaneously combust-- no. No, for that, we turn to the farmers and the heat. Farmers: in short, farmers set fires to enrich the soil and clear the land. The fires get out of control, and there you have it: literally thousands of wild fires burning as I write this.

Then you've got the heat. That would be the heat that even Yucatecans are complaining bitterly about, the heat that reaches 43 and 44 degrees centigrade (that's 109-111 degrees Farenheit). Newspaper photos depict Yucatecan firefighters battling the incendios, and many of these guys are outfitted in standard firefighter garb... in this heat... and I can't imagine how they do it.

Here's your surprising irony for the day (Hm... I guess all ironies are surprising, by definition...): When the heat is at it's worst, there's not a cold shower to be found. That's because your water is stored in a tinaco (water tank) that's located on your roof (to create water pressure). By 3 and 4 p.m., your standard 'cold shower' is anything but refreshing.

But it actually rained yesterday (yay!!!), and this is a great source of relief to all. The air has been washed clean for the moment, and the temperature is down a bit. The firefighters have gained some adavantage, and human beings can walk around without running as much a risk of dehydration.

They say the rains will start in June, and until recently, I had the impression that this meant everything would be better. Now I'm being told it's just different: the rain will bring increased humidity, something like pouring water on the hot coals in a sauna. And the mosquitos will come in full force. So much to look forward to!

So here's what's good right now: low mosquito population, lots of solidarity among humans regarding the heat (ay, qué calor! is a standard small talk starter), and... air conditioning. Yes, I now have access to an air conditioner, and this is quite literally a life saver. I use it mostly in the afternoon when I get home from work at 3 or 4 p.m., when temps are at their highest.

Also good: friends who have pools. I've got several generous friends who let me cool off regularly, and they will justifyably be written into my will, just as soon as I write one.